Domaine de Montille - AOC Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru "Les Malconsorts" 2017

Domaine de Montille is not only one of the greatest Domaines in Burgundy, but one of the greatest Domaines in France. The winemaking is traditional - partial destemming followed by a relatively long maceration period. The wines are aged in oak barriques (20-30% new) and are bottled unfiltered. These are wonderfully elegant, harmonious wines that require at least five years bottle ageing to show at their very best.

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru is entirely whole cluster fruit matured in 50% new oak. It has a backward and reticent bouquet, yet one can tell there are coiled up black fruit here, mixed with raspberry coulis and mulberry scents. The palate is medium-bodied with dense, slightly chewy tannin at first, grippy and assertive in style. Yet it manages to retain admirable balance with an engaging, quite saline, lightly spiced finish that fans out with style. Excellent. BY NEAL MARTIN | JANUARY 10, 2019 Score 92-94 Drinking date 2022-2045.